Read Part 1 here
11th morning, with baguettes, juice and flakes for breakfast, we set out to explore the lesser known Luxembourg gardens. Quaint and expansive, it surrounds the imposing Palais du Luxembourg and in my humble opinion deserves better than relative anonymity. Host to the Medici fountain, it's a perfect retreat for the solo traveller with a book for company. It's also quite perfect to grab sandwiches and fries and enjoy a lazy lunch, perched on one of its many benches.
At walking distance from these gardens, is the famous Pantheon (modelled on its Roman cousin) and La Madeleine, a church dedicated to Mary Magdalene. From history, we proceeded towards economics- the Galaries Lafayette department store, which according to Wiki, earns some billion odd euros in a year. Here, we met Shibani's aunt, who very sweetly extended to us an invitation to her place for the day after. Later in the evening, we were joined by my mom, who despite eight hours of flight on her, bravely agreed to cover the Eiffel by night with us. The Eiffel by night, like by day, is a sight you should not miss. If the day fills you with a warm and fuzzy feeling, the night will make you contemplative and wondrous. Barely into day 3 and Paris was already growing on us.
12th was to be long and packed. My mom was leaving the next day for Copenhagen and we wanted to squeeze in as much as possible in her tight schedule. So beginning the morning with the same hostel breakfast (decent food but sorely missing eggs), we headed straight to the Louvre. One word for Louvre is massive. Once inside, I felt like a philistine. I knew of no painting other than the Mona Lisa and no structure other than the pyramid. I looked hopefully towards the English audio guide but alas, it covered barely one twentieth of things on display. Perhaps it was for the best, for if you hope to cover Louvre inch by inch, you'd need a minimum of two days. The painting that struck me more than the Mona Lisa was La Belle Jardiniere by Raphael. I was transported back to college, attending lectures, learning of implicit religious imageries, explicit facial expressions and the overarching inevitability of death and could feel goosebumps on my arms.
From here, we left for Versailles. A palace constructed many times over, it is slightly reminiscent of the Dolmabahce. Both grand, both ornate and both leaving you with a vague sense of emptiness. I was actually hoping to learn more of the notorious Treaty of Versailles but they pretended it never happened. If only erasing history was that simple. What remained were barren rooms, lush gardens and whimsical royalty. I confess I was disappointed. Disappointment, though, has little room in a place that gives you sunlight till eight in the night. So off we went to Eiffel again. Mamma could see it in the daylight and we could sit on the steps and enjoy Friday night dance performances and parodies by some really talented local groups. It was also the first evening we explored one of the many pretty cafés of Montmarte (the significance of this will emerge later). A long day's walk and a good night's meal lulled us into a very restful sleep.
Saturday, the 13th: Morning ritual followed and we were ready for Notre Dame. I made a mental note to walk straight that day. Notre Dame by the bye is the centre of Paris, something we learnt once we'd left the place. We sat by the station, sipping hot cups of chocolate and admiring a particular little brat begging for money to buy wine and weed (he had a placard, no kidding!). Mamma left in the afternoon and later we acted upon the invitation of the aforementioned aunt. She had the cutest little kid who baby-talked in French and I realised with a start that I couldn't keep up with babies. After a hearty lunch and armed with new information, we headed back to Notre Dame to unearth the centre of Paris. Unearthing was fun. It was right there and yet inconspicuous. We might even have stepped on it without realising. Rumour goes that if you step on the centre, you are sure to visit the city again. It reminded me of the Taj Mahal. You look back once and you'll be coming back again. Since we had time to kill and were yet to cross Sacre Coeur off our list, we headed there (the postponement can be attributed to its proximity to our hostel). Several steps, scenes of Queen and mild annoyance at my brother later, I could appreciate the beauty of the basilica.
It was our last night in Paris and we weren't willing to turn in just yet so we sat again in one of the inviting cafés overlooking the street. And who may we find sitting on the table next to ours? Mr. Hunk-a-doodle-do, straight out of an Austen novel, eating by himself. As if that was not enough, when he opened his mouth, Brit accent came out. And so we talked. I pretended to at least, trying very hard not to ogle. At the end of our almost two hour long conversation (to prolong which, he'd order more wine), we realised he was a fairy who at the stroke of midnight, disappeared into thin air. Of my memories of Paris, this will hold a special place. You see, both of us were grinning like lunatics long after he was gone.
14th and 15th was about Amsterdam. And Amsterdam has a ground rule - what happens in Amsterdam stays in Amsterdam. And who are we but mere mortals to disobey such ordinance? I can only thus tell you the bits and pieces. Amsterdam is beautiful, tolerant, fun and offers some great walking tours. You also have to try their traditional food which is like Indian khichdi with veggies, meat and gravy. It's really delicious. Wash it down with a glass of rose wine and you are good to go. Just watch out for them, bicycles. You can shop till you drop in their limitless arcade or watch bands perform with perfunctory pride near Museumplein or simply enjoy a hot dog by dam square. It's a free country. But don't take that statement too literally. The same laws apply here. The only difference is that Amsterdam will look the other way if you leave its 3 core principles intact - learn to camouflage, don't harm anyone and be good for business. Also, if you can, visit the Anne Frank museum. The 14 year old in you will thank you for it.
16 September - I had not planned on this but I ended up spending my birthday in THE most beautiful place with THE best people. The night before, we'd left Amsterdam for Geneva, where we were joined again by Mamma and my two aunts. At 12 in the night, my mother's friend (at whose place we were staying) made me cut Swiss cake and uncork champagne. I was to later discover that both she and her husband are among the warmest people one can have the good fortune to meet. My mother had spent the previous day running from pillar to post to get me the perfect birthday jacket and that day in question, had planned a trip to Interlaken.
Interlaken! My words will not do justice to its beauty, nor to its picturesque train journey. So I'll just focus on the food. We went way up to the very summit to enjoy a concoction of cheese, eggs, chicken and potatoes along with iced beer. I was, without the slightest hint of exaggeration, on top of the world.
Home beckoned on the 17th and Mamma, Mami, Shibani and I travelled back to Paris to spend a half day too little. Mamma finally got to see Champs Elysses and Arc de Triomple and we all went to see the Tuileries gardens. Before we knew it, it was time to say goodbye. But when it's Au Revoir, it's never goodbye.
It's till we meet again.
11th morning, with baguettes, juice and flakes for breakfast, we set out to explore the lesser known Luxembourg gardens. Quaint and expansive, it surrounds the imposing Palais du Luxembourg and in my humble opinion deserves better than relative anonymity. Host to the Medici fountain, it's a perfect retreat for the solo traveller with a book for company. It's also quite perfect to grab sandwiches and fries and enjoy a lazy lunch, perched on one of its many benches.
At walking distance from these gardens, is the famous Pantheon (modelled on its Roman cousin) and La Madeleine, a church dedicated to Mary Magdalene. From history, we proceeded towards economics- the Galaries Lafayette department store, which according to Wiki, earns some billion odd euros in a year. Here, we met Shibani's aunt, who very sweetly extended to us an invitation to her place for the day after. Later in the evening, we were joined by my mom, who despite eight hours of flight on her, bravely agreed to cover the Eiffel by night with us. The Eiffel by night, like by day, is a sight you should not miss. If the day fills you with a warm and fuzzy feeling, the night will make you contemplative and wondrous. Barely into day 3 and Paris was already growing on us.
12th was to be long and packed. My mom was leaving the next day for Copenhagen and we wanted to squeeze in as much as possible in her tight schedule. So beginning the morning with the same hostel breakfast (decent food but sorely missing eggs), we headed straight to the Louvre. One word for Louvre is massive. Once inside, I felt like a philistine. I knew of no painting other than the Mona Lisa and no structure other than the pyramid. I looked hopefully towards the English audio guide but alas, it covered barely one twentieth of things on display. Perhaps it was for the best, for if you hope to cover Louvre inch by inch, you'd need a minimum of two days. The painting that struck me more than the Mona Lisa was La Belle Jardiniere by Raphael. I was transported back to college, attending lectures, learning of implicit religious imageries, explicit facial expressions and the overarching inevitability of death and could feel goosebumps on my arms.
From here, we left for Versailles. A palace constructed many times over, it is slightly reminiscent of the Dolmabahce. Both grand, both ornate and both leaving you with a vague sense of emptiness. I was actually hoping to learn more of the notorious Treaty of Versailles but they pretended it never happened. If only erasing history was that simple. What remained were barren rooms, lush gardens and whimsical royalty. I confess I was disappointed. Disappointment, though, has little room in a place that gives you sunlight till eight in the night. So off we went to Eiffel again. Mamma could see it in the daylight and we could sit on the steps and enjoy Friday night dance performances and parodies by some really talented local groups. It was also the first evening we explored one of the many pretty cafés of Montmarte (the significance of this will emerge later). A long day's walk and a good night's meal lulled us into a very restful sleep.
Saturday, the 13th: Morning ritual followed and we were ready for Notre Dame. I made a mental note to walk straight that day. Notre Dame by the bye is the centre of Paris, something we learnt once we'd left the place. We sat by the station, sipping hot cups of chocolate and admiring a particular little brat begging for money to buy wine and weed (he had a placard, no kidding!). Mamma left in the afternoon and later we acted upon the invitation of the aforementioned aunt. She had the cutest little kid who baby-talked in French and I realised with a start that I couldn't keep up with babies. After a hearty lunch and armed with new information, we headed back to Notre Dame to unearth the centre of Paris. Unearthing was fun. It was right there and yet inconspicuous. We might even have stepped on it without realising. Rumour goes that if you step on the centre, you are sure to visit the city again. It reminded me of the Taj Mahal. You look back once and you'll be coming back again. Since we had time to kill and were yet to cross Sacre Coeur off our list, we headed there (the postponement can be attributed to its proximity to our hostel). Several steps, scenes of Queen and mild annoyance at my brother later, I could appreciate the beauty of the basilica.
It was our last night in Paris and we weren't willing to turn in just yet so we sat again in one of the inviting cafés overlooking the street. And who may we find sitting on the table next to ours? Mr. Hunk-a-doodle-do, straight out of an Austen novel, eating by himself. As if that was not enough, when he opened his mouth, Brit accent came out. And so we talked. I pretended to at least, trying very hard not to ogle. At the end of our almost two hour long conversation (to prolong which, he'd order more wine), we realised he was a fairy who at the stroke of midnight, disappeared into thin air. Of my memories of Paris, this will hold a special place. You see, both of us were grinning like lunatics long after he was gone.
14th and 15th was about Amsterdam. And Amsterdam has a ground rule - what happens in Amsterdam stays in Amsterdam. And who are we but mere mortals to disobey such ordinance? I can only thus tell you the bits and pieces. Amsterdam is beautiful, tolerant, fun and offers some great walking tours. You also have to try their traditional food which is like Indian khichdi with veggies, meat and gravy. It's really delicious. Wash it down with a glass of rose wine and you are good to go. Just watch out for them, bicycles. You can shop till you drop in their limitless arcade or watch bands perform with perfunctory pride near Museumplein or simply enjoy a hot dog by dam square. It's a free country. But don't take that statement too literally. The same laws apply here. The only difference is that Amsterdam will look the other way if you leave its 3 core principles intact - learn to camouflage, don't harm anyone and be good for business. Also, if you can, visit the Anne Frank museum. The 14 year old in you will thank you for it.
16 September - I had not planned on this but I ended up spending my birthday in THE most beautiful place with THE best people. The night before, we'd left Amsterdam for Geneva, where we were joined again by Mamma and my two aunts. At 12 in the night, my mother's friend (at whose place we were staying) made me cut Swiss cake and uncork champagne. I was to later discover that both she and her husband are among the warmest people one can have the good fortune to meet. My mother had spent the previous day running from pillar to post to get me the perfect birthday jacket and that day in question, had planned a trip to Interlaken.
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Home beckoned on the 17th and Mamma, Mami, Shibani and I travelled back to Paris to spend a half day too little. Mamma finally got to see Champs Elysses and Arc de Triomple and we all went to see the Tuileries gardens. Before we knew it, it was time to say goodbye. But when it's Au Revoir, it's never goodbye.
It's till we meet again.
1 comment:
This is just fantastic. Felt like I was visiting Paris myself.
Very well written.
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